Tuesday, October 28, 2008

TWD: Chocolate Cupcakes, Rescued

I wasn't going to make these. Sure, I like chocolate cupcakes well enough, but I have homemade (home-grown!) Meyer lemon curd to turn into . . . something . . . and I had to bake cookies for a bake sale at school, and earlier this week I'd already done Dorie's Tartest Lemon Tart and three kinds of muffins. And it was just Tuesday! But then . . . chocolate cupcakes with ganache! I just couldn't not do them. I'm compulsive that way.

Scanning through my cupboard, I saw that I had just enough chocolate to complete the recipe without going out to buy more - 5 ounces to be exact. (This is foreshadowing, friends.) The cupcakes came out very nicely. They whipped up quickly, and as they were cooling, I thought about Dorie's filling suggestions. I don't cotton to the idea of jelly in a chocolate cupcake, I didn't have any marshmallow creme on hand, and as much as I wanted to inject them full-to-exploding with Nutella, that was a no-show in my cupboard too.

One item I have plenty of is peanut butter - 11 jars (3 open; 8 unopened), to be exact. So I whipped up a quick batch of peanut butter buttercream and filled a piping bag. Using a plain round tip, I filled each of the 12 cupcakes with the buttercream. (Actually, I filled half, then my daughter took over while I put together the ganache.) If you've never filled a cupcake before, it's an interesting process. You just plunge the tip into the cake and squeeze the filling in. How much? Your best guess. You can actually watch the cupcake swell, and cracks will start to form if it's overfilled. Withdraw the tip and fill the empty space with frosting as you go. Voila!

Alas, here is where things went sour. I melted my remaining 3 ounces of chocolate in the microwave as I often do, added the confectioner's sugar, started to stir in the cubed butter, and then watched in disbelief and dismay as my chocolate promptly seized. I've had chocolate seize on me before, but not in the past decade. That is, not since I learned what causes chocolate to seize (moisture) and how to avoid it (avoid moisture). I stirred a bit more vigorously, unwilling to accept the grainy mash at the end of my spoon. I even tried to resurrect it with a bit of warm cream, which almost looked as if it just might work . . . but no, it broke into an oily mess. Into the garbage went the last of my chocolate.

I was faced with 12 topless cupcakes wearing their frosting on the inside. Fortunately, I had enough peanut butter frosting to cover the tops, so I screwed on a different piping tip and went to work. Ultimately, my cupcakes are not what Dorie ordered this week (sorry, folks!). Instead of elegant swirls of ganache adorning their crowns, they look like they're using chrysanthemums to cover their nakedness. But at least they're seasonal!

I don't know what caused my chocolate to seize ~ the bowl and my spoon seemed dry, but they were freshly washed so there may have been lingering moisture that I missed with the dish towel. All it takes is a drop! But the outcome was serendipitous, as the peanut butter frosting was yummy if not quite beautiful, and that's good enough for me.

Thanks to Clara of I*Heart*Food for Thought for choosing these cupcakes this week! If you want to make them yourself, you can find the recipe on pages 215-217 of Dorie Greenspan's amazing Baking: From My Home to Yours. Don't forget to stop by the Tuesdays with Dorie site to check out the Blogroll . . . I imagine the other TWDers came up with some spookily fun cupcake creations this week!

Recipe Notes:

  • To fill a cupcake with frosting, use a plain round piping tip with a narrow round opening. Insert the tip into the top (if you will be using frosting) or the bottom (if you'll be using a thinner glaze or icing) of the cupcake. Squeeze the filling in slowly and stop before cracks appear in the sides of the cupcake.

  • I used foil cupcake liners for these. I sprayed them with nonstick cooking spray before I put the batter in, which made it very easy to remove them for filling. Although I could have filled them from the top, I opted to remove the wrapper, fill them from the bottom, and then put them back into the wrapper. You'd never guess!

  • I almost never buy buttermilk because it invariably ends up getting wasted. Instead, I substitute plain yogurt or sour cream in recipes that call for buttermilk. If it's a thin batter, say for pancakes, you can add a few tablespoons of milk or cream to make up the called-for amount of sour cream to thin it, but otherwise there's no need.

  • I used low-fat sour cream in place of buttermilk in this recipe. My cupcakes came out moist and dense.

  • Whenever you use cupcake liners, try spraying the interiors with nonstick cooking spray. This will make it easy to remove the paper later and will help prevent cupcakes and muffins from sticking to the paper liners. (Don't you hate it when you peel off your wrapper and lose half your muffin?!)

  • I use a #20 spring-loaded ice cream scoop to transfer my batter from mixing bowl to cupcake pan. It does a nice, neat job and all my cupcakes and muffins are a uniform size.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Meyer Lemons in Season, in October, in New York! (Part 1)

Two birthdays ago, a huge cardboard box arrived on my doorstep. Inside, buried within an absolute avalanche of packing peanuts, was a tiny Meyer lemon tree in a small terra cotta pot. This birthday gift was meaningful on a few different levels. First off, my husband had gotten me the perfect gift not because I'd asked for it, but because he'd been listening and reading between the lines. I'd recently written an article on Meyer lemons, and I was intrigued by the small, elegant citrus that was pretty much unavailable from markets on the East Coast. I was talking a lot about the little lemons, wondering wistfully, looking up recipes on the Internet and in books, imagining.

Until I opened the box in my kitchen that July day, I had no idea you could successfully grow a Meyer lemon tree in a small indoor space in New York. But my husband had gone to considerable lengths to research and provide me with just this wonderful thing. So I carefully took the little tree ~ it was about 2 feet tall ~ from its nest of packaging and installed it in the sunniest window in our house. And it flourished. A few leaves dropped, an expected consequence of the stress of undergoing a transcontinental jaunt in a cardboard box. But new leaves grew, and lusciously fragrant white blossoms emerged from among the dark green leaves.

Eventually the blossoms fell off, revealing tiny fruit no bigger than dried navy beans. And the little fruit smelled terrific too. And then winter came, and the window space got chilly. And my little Meyer lemon started to drop its leaves. And then I was horrified to see the little lemons begin to fall off too, one by one. Finally, all but three leaves had vacated the spindly tree, and a cluster of three tiny lemons were all that remained of the initially promising crop. They were deep green and sticky, covered with cat hair. The Meyer lemon tree of my dreams looked like something out of a citrus grower's nightmare.

I began to add a liquid houseplant fertilizer to its water, and it started to perk up a little. Spring came, leaves grew back, and the little lemons got bigger. They were now the size of prune plums.

And that's when Sofia, our cat, had an unfortunate clash with the little lemon tree. I knew at once it was an accident ~ a graceless startle or a badly landed jump had sent her directly into the path of the little tree (and its thorns), and the weight of the lemons swinging wildly snapped the branch from which they hung. I could have cried to see it dangling parallel to the slender trunk, those tiny lemons nearly resting in the sphagnum moss around the base of the tree. I had a brief moment of "Oh, forget it already ~ lemons in New York? Come on, you should have known it wouldn't work out!" And then I pulled myself together and went to fetch splint-making materials.

The Broken Branch Valiantly Bears Up

(Arrow shows electrical tape at repair site)

Sofia watched as I bound up the broken branch with electrical tape, using a heavy-dute paint stirrer to support the branch beneath the fruit. I then taped the stirrer to the pot to hold it in place. Sofi jumped up to the windowsill, meandered over to inspect my work, and promptly started scratching her chin against my painstakingly positioned splint, an activity that would thenceforth continue to occupy much of her free time.

Scratching the Chin

That was a long, long time ago. It's now October, a year later, and those lemons have finally, miraculously ripened. The branch is bowed over the paint stirrer from the weight of the lemons, and evidence of Sofi's inability to leave the poor plant alone is present in the tufts of cat fur clinging to the electrical tape binding the stirrer to the pot. I don't know exactly how long these three lemons have been on the tree, but I do know it's been well over a year; I'll estimate 15 months. For a while there, we were starting to wonder if it might be a lime tree.

I knew that when I picked my little lemons, I had to have something really, really special for them to do. Something that would showcase the unique attributes of the Meyer lemon, and honor the hard-won fruit of my little tree's labors. I decided on Dorie Greenspan's Tartest Lemon Tart, because it's unusual in that it calls for the entire lemon ~ peel, pith, and all ~ to be used. Since the Meyer lemon has a wonderfully thin, mild rind and is extremely juicy for its size, this was the perfect recipe. I adapted it to make individual tartlets instead of one large tart. As such, it took only about half of the filling to make the tarts. The remainder I cooked off to make a silky, luxurious lemon curd. Recipes for both of these delights will follow soon.

Meyer Lemon Tartlet

Meyer Lemon Curd

After I picked the lemons, I removed the splint, pruned some of the overgrown foliage back, and gave my little Meyer lemon tree a good stiff drink of Miracle-Gro spiked water. Hopefully, it's already surreptitiously working on its next crop of lemons. If you want to try a Meyer lemon or other citrus tree, indoor or outdoor, for yourself, try these guys ~ that's where mine came from.

Sofia is finding it hard to get comfortable on the windowsill without her chin scratcher.

Sofi and the Meyer Lemon Tree

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Crispy Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Garlic

This summer was the first summer in perhaps 10 years that I put a garden in. It wasn’t an ambitious plot by any stretch — just a few tomato, eggplant, bean, and pepper plants; a handful of radishes; a few herbs; and one ridiculously productive grape tomato plant.

This St. Nicholas grape tomato plant produced pint after pint of the most delicious grape tomatoes I’ve ever eaten. Thin-skinned and sweet, the tomatoes grew in generous clusters that seemed to ripen on cue, every other day. Even now, at the end of the growing season, my hale St. Nicholas still has a few forlorn yellow blossoms clinging stubbornly to it.

But such a tremendous volume of these little gems turned out to be an embarrassment of riches. There are just so many grape tomatoes you can eat on a salad every day, and my attempts to give them away were unsuccessful. (Apparently, none of my friends like tomatoes.) My parents and in-laws were growing their own. Even our poor guinea pig was growing tired of the single-source vitamin C booster.

I tried roasting the little tomatoes, but they fell apart into a soupy mess with a somewhat disconcerting texture. And then I hit on the idea of turning the oven down and drying the tomatoes instead of roasting them. Success!

Drying the tomatoes instead of roasting them works something like culinary magic. Grape tomatoes are good. Grape tomatoes seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper, and slowly oven-dried along with thick slices of fresh garlic are transformed. They become crispy, tangy-salty-sweet little morsels that are every bit as addictive as potato chips. I have been known to consume a good portion of the batch as it cools on the baking sheet, fresh from the oven.

Try them plain as a snack, toss a few into a salad or a pasta dish, or use them in anything that you’d use sun-dried tomatoes in.

Oven-Dried Grape or Cherry Tomatoes

  • 1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes*
  • 3 cloves fresh garlic, sliced about 1/8" thick
  • Olive oil for drizzling
  • 1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher salt works well)
  • Freshly ground black pepper

  1. Preheat oven to 225 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with nonstick cooking spray.
  2. Wash and spin-dry tomatoes. Pick over and remove any that are blemished or moldy.
    Cut tomatoes in half and place in a nonreactive mixing bowl; add garlic slices. Drizzle tomatoes and garlic with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat.
  3. Pour tomatoes out onto baking sheet and arrange in a single layer. Place sheet in oven and cook at 225 degrees F for about 2 hours. Turn tomatoes with a spatula and return to oven. Check again in about 1 hour; return to oven if tomatoes are not dry. Tomatoes are done when they are dry and crispy. The bigger and thicker tomatoes in the bunch should still be tender and pliable; none should be charred. Store these in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container and used within 2 to 3 days.

*Feel free to scale this recipe to accommodate your tomato booty.

Recipe Notes:

  • You can use store-bought grape or cherry tomatoes for this recipe too. The next time your purchased pint of grape tomatoes starts getting a bit wrinkly, don't throw it out ~ oven-dry those tomatoes! Buy two pints when they go on sale and dry them!
  • Because these tomatoes aren't "hard dried," that is, they aren't completely free from moisture, I store them in the refrigerator to prevent them from getting moldy. They will soften a bit, but the flavor will still be excellent. Use them exactly as you would sun-dried tomatoes. Try chopping them and adding them to a vinaigrette for a tossed green salad!
  • My kids love these. They make a great snack, as they have a taste and texture like snack chips but they're good-for-you tomatoes. From personal experience, I can tell you, if you're making these to use in a recipe, make extra for snacking (or hide them from your kids).
  • If your grape tomatoes are of varying sizes and they're drying at different rates, you can remove the crispy ones as they're finished and return the baking sheet with the remainder of the tomatoes to the oven to finish drying. Check on them every half hour or so.

This is an update of an earlier post ~ you can see the original here.

Monday, October 20, 2008

TWD: Pumpkin Muffins

Of all the Tuesdays with Dorie events I've had the pleasure of participating in thus far, I think these Pumpkin Muffins were quite likely the most straightforward, homespun, whip-it-up-and-enjoy-it yet. No blowtorches, no fancy ingredients, no techniques that require "mastering." Just good old-fashioned mixing-bowl low tech, and it made for a nice change of pace.

To me, there are few things as comforting as a warm, buttery muffin on a chilly day. (Or any day, really.) Muffins are like personal cakes, but without the "dessert for breakfast" guilt of a sweet roll. And these muffins go one step further by actually being ~ dare I say it? ~ good for you!

Because I knew that the primary consumers of these muffins (that is, my children) would be put off by the presence of raisins, I omitted them. I would like to make a few different batches, experimenting with chopped dates, dried sweetened cranberries and blueberries, and dried apricots, but this week's muffin was free from all fruit except the pumpkin puree.

For nuts I used walnuts, though I think pecans would be delicious too. The sunflower seeds sprinkled over the top initially seemed like an aesthetic afterthought but turned out to be one of the best features ~ I thought ~ of the recipe. I'd like to try substituting pepitas for the sunflower seeds sometime. Also, I'd like to do a batch with granola sprinkled over the top.

I replaced half of the unbleached white flour with whole wheat flour, a swap that not even my children could detect ~ pumpkin is a very assertive flavor, so it provides a nice camouflage for the stronger flavor of whole wheat. I replaced the buttermilk with plain homemade yogurt, because that's what I had. I doubled the recipe and made half into jumbo breakfast-sized muffins and the other into standard snack-size muffins. I got a full two pans out of the recipe.

Cutting these open, I was impressed by how dense the crumb is. I can see why Dorie suggests toasting these ~ I have no trouble believing they'll hold up in the toaster oven. In fact, I'm looking forward to testing this out for myself come lunchtime today.

Recipe Notes:

  • As with all muffin batters, it's imperative to avoid overmixing. You can use your stand mixer for the wet ingredients, and even for introducing the dry ingredients, but I suggest following Dorie's advice and completing the mixing by hand. I shut off my mixer as soon as the last of the flour-and-spice blend was added, and then used a spatula to mix the rest of the batter. My muffins rose beautifully, in spite of the density of the crumb.
  • You can use a spoon to fill your muffin tins, but for perfectly proportioned muffins, I love to use a spring-activated ice cream scoop. I have several in different sizes ~ one for mini muffins, standard muffins, and jumbo muffins ~ and I use them not only for scooping muffin batter into pans, but also for everything from cookies to meatballs.
  • Good-quality spices are important in this recipe, as their flavors will be showcased in the end product. I used ground nutmeg from the Spice House, and Vietnamese, Saigon Cassia Cinnamon from the Savory Spice Shop.
  • If you don't have buttermilk, you can substitute plain yogurt, or you can make sour milk by adding a tablespoon of white or cider vinegar to a measuring cup and then topping off with milk to reach the called-for amount.

Thank you to Kelly of Sounding My Barbaric Gulp for choosing these wonderful muffins! If you would like to make them yourself, the recipe falls on p. 13 of Dorie Greenspan's Baking: From My Home to Yours, and it can also be found on Kelly's blog. Be sure to check out the TWD blogroll to see what the other bakers came up with!

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Brown Sugar Apple-Cranberry Crisp

Everyone has a favorite season. For me, it's summer. Give me the heat and humidity - I (and my hair) love it. I love having everyone home from school with me, the kids and my husband occupying their own spaces in the house around me as I work (grumbling about working, more often than not) in my office. The longs days melting slowly into night.

The fall, therefore, represents an end to those things that I love. The mornings turn cold. The kids and husband are off to school. Days get shorter, the nights are upon us abruptly. I find the sight and sound of leaves blowing across the surface of the road vaguely depressing.

And yet, autumn does have its undeniable charms. Here, in the Mid-Hudson Valley, there is much to enjoy about fall, I have to admit. The trees are absolutely aflame - but only in color. The mornings are cool, but they warm to afternoons in the 70s, gently cooling off again to chilly evenings, perfect for those toe-toasting fires on the hearth, ideal snuggling weather.

But to me, the best ~ the absolute best ~ thing about fall, the thing that provides some small consolation for sending my kids out the door every morning into the less-than-tender mercies of high school, are the fruits of the season. Specifically, apples.

Loaded with Cameos

When it comes to eating fruit out of hand, I am a grape/banana/stone fruit/berry kind of girl. Crunchy fruits have never appealed all that much to me. But take an apple, apply heat to it, and some kind of alchemy occurs - I can't get enough.

This past weekend our family went apple picking. For $17.50 we took home about 22 pounds of apples (in the bag; we took home more than that in total weight ~ I'm not counting what we ate straight from the tree). That's a lot of apples. And I have no doubt that I'll use every one of them, and probably wish for more.

We picked Fujis, Cameos, Empires, Stayman-Winesaps, Northern Spys, Golden Delicious, and Red Delicious. So far, we've eaten a few out of hand, and I've made Apple-Cranberry Crisp, Apple-Walnut Muffins, Waldorf Salad, and Caramel-Butter Glazed Apple Cookies. It's been four days. So many recipes, so few apples! I'm starting to wonder if we can squeeze in another round of picking before the season closes at the end of October.

This rustic apple crisp uses brown sugar to produce rich, caramel-like overtones in the apple filling. Tart cranberries help to balance the sweetness. Refrigerating the crumble and then spooning it on in clusters results in a nice, hearty texture with lots of buttery crunch. Happy fall!

Brown Sugar Apple-Cranberry Crisp

For Brown Sugar Crumble:
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter at room temperature
  • 1 cup oats (rolled or quick cooking; not instant)
  • 1 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

For Apples:

  • 8 medium baking apples
  • 1/2 cup dried sweetened cranberries or 1 cup fresh cranberries, chopped
  • 3 tablespoons brown sugar
  1. For Crumble: In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together oats, brown sugar, flour, and cinnamon. Cut in butter until the mixture forms pea-sized clumps with no visible butter showing through. Add walnuts and stir. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
  2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Spray a 2-quart casserole dish with nonstick cooking spray. Slice or coarsely dice apples and add to baking dish. Scatter cranberries over apples, sprinkle with brown sugar, and toss to mix.
  3. Using the back of a spoon, level the surface of the apples in the casserole dish and drop the crumb topping over the tables in heaping spoonfuls. Cover the whole surface of the apples, but you don't need to level the crumble.
  4. Bake at 375 degrees F for 1 hour or until a knife inserted into the center of the crisp passes easily through the apples. If the topping is browning too quickly, just cover the dish loosely with a sheet of foil.
  5. Let stand 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Enjoy plain or with whipped cream or ice cream. Refrigerate leftovers and reheat in the microwave or standard oven before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

Printable View Here

Recipe Notes:

  • The crumble can be made a couple of days in advance. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator and toss with a fork before using.

  • I've made this with rolled oats and with quick-cooking oats. The former can be pretty chewy; the latter can be a little pasty on the second day. My suggestion? Half and half. I'd say go with the quick-cooking oats if you prefer a less chewy texture.

  • You can use either fresh or sweetened dried cranberries. If you are using fresh, you can increase your sugar by a tablespoon, if desired.

  • The amount of sugar added to the apples is flexible. Taste your apples ~ really tart varieties will take a bit more sugar than sweeter baking varieties will. Keep in mind, though, that the crumb topping does provide significant sweetness.

  • You can use your favorite baking apples for this dessert. I like to use a combination of apples, in fact. Some apples keep their shape very well upon baking, others break down into applesauce. Using a combination provides for an interesting texture that is a combination of the two qualities. For the dish pictured here, I used Golden Delicious and Stayman-Winesap ~ two varieties that we picked locally.

  • Golden Delicious


  • Cutting your apples into slices or dice is a matter of personal preference. I sometimes do both in one dish. My preference, though, is slices for pie and dice for crisps.

A Star Is Born

Thank you to all who wrote and commented on the teacup in my Lenox Almond Biscotti post! This is one of my favorite teacups. I don't have a huge collection, but I have some cherished cups that I inherited from family members, and this is one of them.

Glamour Shots

This teacup, my little show-stealer, once belonged to my husband's paternal grandmother. According to my mother-in-law, the cup was around when she started dating my father-in-law, so that means it's at least fifty years old. Sorry, that's pretty much all the background info I have on it!

If you know something about china (I don't), the marks on the bottom of the cup might tell you something about the manufacturer and pattern. If they do, please drop me a comment or an e-mail and let me in on the mystery.

Thanks again for your interest!

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

TWD: Lenox Almond Biscotti

This week's Tuesdays with Dorie entry, Lenox Almond Biscotti, was one I was looking forward to. Since I make pounds and pounds of biscotti every Christmas season, I'm always open to new recipes to supplement my cache of favorites. The addition of cornmeal in this recipe intrigued me, and I was interested to know how it would manifest in the finished product.

I liked the subtle graininess it gave the biscotti, and I think I'd like it even better in a savory application. I'm envisioning an hors d'oeuvre biscotti - sundried tomato and rosemary, perhaps - with the extra texture of the cornmeal and maybe some pignolia nuts.

This is a good recipe, but to be truthful, it's not my favorite. I prefer oil-based biscotti recipes to butter-based ones. I like the way the dough handles with the addition of oil as the fat, and I think it performs better in baking and storage. This recipe, however, was easy to cut, stayed nice and moist, and had excellent flavor.

The texture of the finished biscotti was really nice - crispy more than crunchy, light enough to eat on its own but suitable for dunking. I'd make these again, and I'm definitely planning to try a few savory variations with the cornmeal-dough base.

Recipe Notes:

  • The dough, like all biscotti dough, was easy to put together but extremely sticky, making it a bit of a challenge to work with. Every biscotti baker probably has a favorite method for handling his or her dough. My pet foolproof method makes handling and forming the biscotti dough as easy as working with Play-Doh: simply wet hands with cold water before forming the dough into logs. Mmm-hmm. It's that simple. Don't bother greasing your hands ~ you won't need to. Forget about trying to smooth your logs of dough with spatulas; that's an exercise in frustration. Just wet your hands under the faucet, shake them lightly to remove excess water, and mold your dough with wet hands. That's it! If the dough gets tacky and starts to stick before you're satisfied with the shape of your logs, just rewet your hands. You may see the dough at the very edges of your logs start to look a bit watery; don't worry about it. Just press it in toward the body of the log so that it doesn't thin the edge, and it'll turn out just fine. This method works for me every single time, with every single biscotti recipe I've used.

  • I baked both loaves but sliced and toasted only one. The other loaf I cooled, wrapped whole in waxed paper and then in foil, and then froze for fresh biscotti another day. It should keep in the freezer like this for at least a month.

  • Instead of lining up the slices "marching-band-style" to be toasted, I laid them on the cut surfaces and toasted each surface (for 5 to 7 minutes). This is my standard practice for biscotti making, as I find that the toasting is more consistent and it prevents the bottom of the slices from getting too dark.

  • While I made the straight-up almond version of this recipe, you can really let your imagination go wild with this one. Baking chips of any kind, chopped chocolate, spices, dried fruits and berries, extracts or oils, citrus zest . . . your flavoring options are practically limitless. I'm looking forward to trying some of the variations that other TWD bakers created!

Thanks, Gretchen of Canela & Comino, for choosing this recipe! If you'd like to see what the other TWDers came up with, check out the blogroll at Tuesdays with Dorie. If you'd like to try making these terrific biscotti yourself, you can find the recipe in Dorie Greenspan's Baking: From My Home to Yours (pp. 141-143), or here.

Thanks for stopping by!



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